You’re adding water to your pool every other day and wondering if you have a leak or just normal evaporation. The answer matters — a real leak left untreated damages plumbing, lifts pool decks, and runs your water bill up dramatically. Here’s how to tell the difference.
Normal evaporation rate
A typical residential pool loses 1/4″ to 1/2″ per day to evaporation in summer, and slightly less in cooler weather. For a 20,000 gallon pool, that’s 100–300 gallons per week from evaporation alone.
Higher loss factors:
- Hot, dry, windy climate (desert Southwest).
- Direct sun exposure with no shade.
- Heated pool (warmer water evaporates faster).
- Waterfall or fountain features (water exposed to air more).
- Heavy bather use with splash-out.
If you’re losing more than 1″ per day for several days in a row with no obvious wind/sun/heater explanation, you might have a leak.
The bucket test (the standard leak detection)
If the pool dropped more than the bucket, you have a leak. The size of the difference tells you the severity.
Pump on vs. pump off test
To narrow down where the leak is:
- Mark the water level. Run the pump for 24 hours. Note how much water you lost.
- Mark the level again. Shut the pump off for 24 hours. Note how much water you lost.
- More loss with pump ON = leak is in the return-side plumbing (pressure side).
- More loss with pump OFF = leak is in the suction-side plumbing (pulls air in when running, pulls water out when not).
- Equal loss = leak is in the pool shell itself (liner tear, plaster crack, light niche).
Common leak locations
- Skimmer faceplate (where the skimmer meets the pool wall)
- Underwater light niche seal
- Return jet fittings
- Main drain pot
- Underground PVC plumbing (hard to find without a professional)
Equipment that minimizes water loss
Pool Season Liquid Solar Cover
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AquaPill #73 Solar Liquid Blanket
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Pump Lid Gasket O-Ring
Shop NowIf your bucket test confirms a leak you can’t locate, reach out to PST Pool Supplies for guidance on professional leak detection services in your area.